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[OT] Table saw power switch http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=5785 |
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Author: | Laurent Brondel [ Thu Mar 23, 2006 3:03 am ] |
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I've been looking on the web for this and found nothing: where can I find a power switch for a tablesaw, the kind that fastens on the fence rail and has a big red stop sign that can pushed with the hip? |
Author: | Pwoolson [ Thu Mar 23, 2006 3:12 am ] |
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Laurent, they can be had at many of the industrial supply places (Grainger, McMaster Carr, MCS...). I got one for my thickness sander because I stand to the side when I'm feeding stock in and the power switch is on the far side. I couldn't get to it if I needed to. I got mine at AutomationDirect.com. Hope that helps. E-stop switches |
Author: | tippie53 [ Thu Mar 23, 2006 3:44 am ] |
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Here is something you may like. I used to have a foot switch it only works when you are stepping on it john |
Author: | Laurent Brondel [ Thu Mar 23, 2006 4:54 am ] |
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Thanks Paul! I ordered two switches at automationdirect.com, I have a feeling I can always use another one for something. John, that sounds like an interesting idea, I saw tablesaw setups where people built a jig with a vertical board that allowed to stop/start the motor with the knee or the foot. Well, it's for a '40 Craftsman 9", all cast-iron, only on/off switch is on the 1HP motor so… |
Author: | Serge Poirier [ Thu Mar 23, 2006 5:07 am ] |
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John, is it the same type the old sewing machines have? |
Author: | tippie53 [ Thu Mar 23, 2006 5:12 am ] |
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My switch is located that I can kick it on and off. |
Author: | crazymanmichael [ Thu Mar 23, 2006 9:57 am ] |
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the sewing machine switches are too light; they wont take the current of a table saw etc. woodworkers supply sells 15 amp rated switches, i think for <$20. yhey aren't "industrial" quality but are ok for light use. |
Author: | Serge Poirier [ Thu Mar 23, 2006 10:12 am ] |
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Sorry i did not give more on my thoughts when i asked this, i was more thinking of using the sewing machine pedal switch for my drum sander which has a 1/2 hp motor, anyone thinks it's possible to do this? |
Author: | crazymanmichael [ Fri Mar 24, 2006 12:43 am ] |
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the only way to tell is to compare the rated amperage of the switch to the amperage of the motor. that being said i would be surprised if the sewing machine switch is rated high enough to cope with the current draw of a motor that size, unless the sewing machine from wich it came was a very large industrial model. |
Author: | Serge Poirier [ Fri Mar 24, 2006 4:50 pm ] |
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Thanks Michael! |
Author: | Laurent Brondel [ Fri Mar 24, 2006 10:30 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=ToddStock] Having watch a couple of folks saw off or damage digits (not fun, but really educational), I'd think seriously about where to put the panic switch and what you think it might be used for.[/QUOTE] Same here, with the radial arm saw the tablesaw is probably the *most* dangerous tool in the shop (save for the jointer maybe?). I've been using an aluminum Craftsman 10" contractor tablesaw lent to me for a while (a *real* piece of junk…), with the switch attached low on the saw's casing. 1 year later and I still fumble with my right hand to shut off the saw after a cut… Bad, bad design that can so easily lead to accidents… |
Author: | Laurent Brondel [ Fri Mar 24, 2006 10:31 pm ] |
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By the way Todd, you "safety switch" is a very cool idea! |
Author: | Serge Poirier [ Fri Mar 24, 2006 11:11 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=laurent] [QUOTE=ToddStock] Having watch a couple of folks saw off or damage digits (not fun, but really educational), I'd think seriously about where to put the panic switch and what you think it might be used for.[/QUOTE] Same here, with the radial arm saw the tablesaw is probably the *most* dangerous tool in the shop (save for the jointer maybe?). I've been using an aluminum Craftsman 10" contractor tablesaw lent to me for a while (a *real* piece of junk…), with the switch attached low on the saw's casing. 1 year later and I still fumble with my right hand to shut off the saw after a cut… Bad, bad design that can so easily lead to accidents…[/QUOTE] Laurent, i have the same problem with my Mastercraft 10", i wonder if anyone here has some tip on what to do with this other than unscrewing the on/off switch from the inside and clean it, matbe you and me should think about a way to insulate the switch from sawdust. |
Author: | Laurent Brondel [ Sat Mar 25, 2006 1:02 am ] |
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Laurent, i have the same problem with my Mastercraft 10", i wonder if anyone here has some tip on what to do with this other than unscrewing the on/off switch from the inside and clean it, matbe you and me should think about a way to insulate the switch from sawdust. Serge, you could just disconnect that switch and replace it with one from automationdirect.com or other places. Attach the new switch with a flange under the fence guide, right under the right hand. As for me I'm restoring an old '50 Craftsman 9" all cast-iron tablesaw, 1HP motor, 2 belts, 3 cast iron extension wings, cast iron stand, rock solid fence, 250lbs mounted. |
Author: | Miketobey [ Sat Mar 25, 2006 3:27 am ] |
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Rockler-safety switch @ $37.99-I just ordered two more. Easy to install and easy to "hip-check" with the large bail type shutoff.I have a couple of "deadman" foot switches for my saw and router table and drillpress. Sometimes I find the contortions necessary to use them put me in more danger. It's most satisfactory on the drillpress. I put one of the Rockler ones(other suppliers sell the same switch) on a friend's table saw and it makes for confidence re: emergency shutoff |
Author: | Serge Poirier [ Sat Mar 25, 2006 3:56 am ] |
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Thanks Laurent and Mike, i'll be checking into buying me a better safety switch, Laurent, you're gonna need some lockable casters for that baby! must be nice to have a big TS like this, i only have a contractor TS and i'm really thinking of buying me one of those big ones! Cool ![]() Mike, i'll be checking into the pedal switches too, makes a lot of sense on scry tools like TS and drum sanders! Thanks! |
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